Disclaimer: This is not official InventAPart Documentation. All information is provided by RigidBot Users as is and without guarantee. We hope the information is useful but you use it at your own risk.
- 1 User Manual
- 2 Kit Assembly
- 3 Pre-assembled Printers
- 4 Software
- 5 Calibration and set up for first print
- 6 Test print and calibrate (fine tuning)
- 7 Warnings
- User Contributed User Manual A collection of basic operating instructions that covers hardware and software settings to get your first print.
Not required for fully assembled delivery
Official Invent-a-part Documentation
- Official RigidBot Big Assembly Instructions
- Official Assembly Videos
- (unauthorized scan) Official RigidBot Regular Assembly Instructions
Links to parts and accessories for replacement created by Jeff Parish, Jayson Kelly and Heath Harper to keep the supply chain alive.
The LaserWeldDesign store has parts and suppplies. The LaserWeldDesign documentation link has details on RB2 assembly instructions, Firmware updates for RB1 and RB2 and Power Supply Upgrade documentation.
Links to user blogs documenting their build experience:
Links to similar systems
the quick/dirty guide for assembled printers, by A User (someone please clean this up or modify as needed):
- unbox it
- (optional) take the cable off the power supply, throw out power supply, replace power supply (optional)
- plug in PSU
- plug in USB
- Check for missing screws Everywhere
- check for loose screws
- make sure that the bed and nozzle can slide smoothly on the rails
- check / fix belt tension (I found I had to actually cut one tooth off of each belt to get them tighter, and then adjust with the tensioner)
- lower the bed significantly
- Add blue painters tape to the bed, or glass, or whatever.
- turn on printer
- upgrade the firmware
- start the bed levelling tool (note: with the bed being too-low!)
- raise the bed somewhat close, but still too low
- repeat for every corner
- check the center
- re-do the bed levelling a final time, this time actually getting it close-enough with the paper trick
- Make sure that you have all of the options and upgrades you ordered
- PID Autotune a few times (guide exists on this wiki)
You will need to select modeling, slicing, and printer control software. Software to visualize and edit the G Code produced by your slicer is an advanced/expert feature that you may wish to add to your workflow. Some people prefer more all-in-one solutions, while others prefer focused special purpose tools for each process. See also 3D Printing Workflow for advice, tutorials, and resources for people new to 3D printing. Some popular free choices for software (click for a RigidBot Wiki overview, and links to download the software):
|Software||License||Slicing||G Code Edit||Printer Control|
|Cura||Free||good to start for Slicing and Printing|
|Repetier Host||Free||good to start for Slicing and Printing|
|Printrun Pronterface||Free||for Print control (if you have no Display)|
|netfabb Basic||Free||also to repair STL files if not sliced correct|
|meshmixer||Free||good for custom Support structure|
If for some reason you need to customize or reflash your RigidBot mainboard firmware (FW), see Firmware.
Calibration and set up for first print
Manual printer head movement
- Before moving the print head make sure that the end stops work and are set to the right positions. Move the printer head slowly before you reach the edge of the print area!
- Measure the Z Axes and set them to same height.
- necessary before printing!
Test each part separately
- Travel XYZ: With the Display or Pronterface/Repetier Host (should be done prior to bed leveling)
- Auto Home: to test axis movement and end stops and set bed level (will normally be done before each print to ensure that it doesn't crash)
- Extrude: Get enough space under the nozzle then heat it up (220-230°C) and extrude some filament
- Heat bed: Test the heat bed maybe (50-60°C)
- now you should be ready for your first print
Test print and calibrate (fine tuning)
Calibrate the Extruder flow rate (E-Steps)
- necessary for accurate prints that the right amount of material is extruded
- This is not necessary. The X, Y and Z steps are determined by the geometry of the pulleys, belts and screw (for the Z). Inaccuracies in dimensions are normally due to other factors like extrusion and should be addressed directly.
Calibrate other things (if needed) for example the PID temperature control (recommended with new heater block)
- Do not unplug or plug wiring while the main board is powered. It can damage the stepper drivers.
- When powered down, do not move the carriage or the bed too quickly. When a stepper motor is manually moved, it becomes a generator and can damage the main board.
- Be extremely careful if you have to remove the extruder connections from the RigidBoard to gain access to the board. they are very fragile and the ends will break easily.
- If you have to adjust the current settings on one of the stepper motors be very careful with the trim pots. To much pressure or force and they will break.